GENOVA: L’ENIGMA DELLA BELLEZZA
È una città che rifiuta la banalità del consumo veloce, che non si lascia ridurre a uno slogan, che non si piega alla retorica del turismo facile.
2025
Review by Beatrice

Genoa’s beauty is not made for a first glance; it is a city that reveals itself slowly, to those who know how to wait.
Genoa is a living paradox, a city that both denies and offers itself with the same stubbornness with which the sea challenges the land. Its caruggi, narrow and labyrinthine, are the arteries of an ancient organism that breathes in silence and shadow, in that chiaroscuro that is the perfect metaphor for its identity: reserved, secretive, yet sumptuous, capable of suddenly opening onto palaces of unimaginable elegance, treasure troves of art and history that seem to defy time with their intact beauty—an echo of an era when wealth and power translated into art, into sculpted marble, into frescoes that still resist the passage of time.
Here, among the worn stones and half-closed shutters, artisan workshops survive as outposts of a world that has vanished elsewhere: the studios of luthiers, master leatherworkers, and goldsmiths who shape metal as if it were an ancient tale. Then there are the art galleries, the confectioneries, their windows frozen in time, where sweetness is not a trend but a tradition rooted in the routes of merchants, in the skilled blending of spices and sugars brought from distant lands.
Palazzo Rosso, with its façades steeped in history, is a declaration of prestige and elegance. But it is inside that its true soul is revealed: an explosion of frescoes and paintings that speak the language of great European art. Here, time is layered in the works of Van Dyck, Guercino, and Veronese, in an endless dialogue between light and color.
Not far away, Palazzo Spinola appears almost discreet from the outside, as if wishing to conceal its secret from distracted eyes. But once inside, one is engulfed by a suspended atmosphere, where Baroque halls and paintings by Rubens and Anton Van Dyck seem to still await the gentle footsteps of the Genoese nobility who once inhabited them. It is an intimate place, a residence miraculously preserved, where every object, every reflection on the gilded mirrors tells a story of grandeur and decline.
Palazzo Reale, on the other hand, has no need to hide. It is the residence of those who sought to impress, those who brought to Genoa the splendor of the great European courts. Its halls, decorated with an almost theatrical magnificence through delicate pastel hues, host gilded stuccoes, dizzying frescoes, and a sense of grandeur that reaches its peak in the Hall of Mirrors, worthy of Versailles. And then there is the terrace, from which one can overlook the city and the port—a view that spans from past to present, from marble to the sea.

Villa del Principe, the residence of Andrea Doria, the great admiral who made Genoa a naval power. Here, the breath of history is even deeper, for this is not just a palace, but a declaration of power and political vision. The gardens face the sea as if still awaiting the return of Genoese galleys, while inside, Perin del Vaga’s frescoes celebrate the grandeur of the master of the house with a majesty that allows no rebuttal.
And yet, Genoa remains a blurred idea on the tourist map, as if its depth were a flaw rather than a richness. It is a city that refuses the banality of quick consumption, that cannot be reduced to a slogan, that does not yield to the rhetoric of easy tourism. The world brushes against it without truly understanding it, visits it without truly experiencing it, favoring more immediate destinations, those more willing to be simplified. But Genoa is not a city for those who seek the already known; it is an experience for those who know how to listen, for those who accept the challenge of the unspoken, the hidden, for those who understand that true beauty is the one that reveals itself only to those who have the patience to seek it.
Perhaps it is precisely this reserved soul, this silent resistance to spectacle, that makes it so misunderstood. Genoa does not easily grant itself—it must be earned, crossed with the gaze of those who know that any corner, suddenly, can conceal and unveil a masterpiece, a sublime detail, a forgotten story. Its charm is not immediate but layered like the centuries that have shaped it. And in an age that rewards fleeting appearances, Genoa remains a challenge, a sophisticated and exclusive existential journey.
Genoa is vertical, not horizontal: it is a city that climbs and descends, that ascends and hides.